Hi, I've been perusing the interwebs for a few days trying to find others with specific problems as mine in an attempt to find the cheapest solution possible. Maybe you guys can help...

My check engine light has been on for a few months and I have found success in turning it off by replacing the engine control module and the ignition control module. Turns out the brand new ICM was junk and I put the old one back in and everything was perfect for about a week.

Now, shifting into gear when at rest is troubling in how much force it takes to get it into gear; any gear. Most of the time I will try to jimmy it with finesse, but it is easiest when I am rolling. This has me stressed because I know that transmission problems usually = $$$. I noticed, however, that my brakes will tighten up when this happens, which makes me think that it is a hydraulic problem and led me down the path to slave or master cylinders.

Is a bleed in order? A replacement part?

P.S. I have the most trouble shifting and breaking when the check engine light is off, but more recently, it has been on and shifting is easier.

?

 

Can you get any codes from the computer?

 

I suppose I could get the codes from the mechanic, but I wanted to get as much information as possible before I brought it over there. I am a student and I guess I want to gauge how long I can wait until this problem needs to be addressed. If possible, I'd like to wait until October when I get my next stipend.

 

I recently bought a code reader in order to save myself the $60 hit from my mechanic every time I need to pull codes.

KOEO:
11 = Pass

Engine Timing Check:
varies between 23 and 27 deg before top dead center
This should be 27 to 33 deg

Because this is a distributor-less system, I don't think that it is possible to adjust this. Hoping to correct this electronically, I put in a brand new Ignition Control Module that I have had laying around and then the engine wouldn't start.

I pulled out my hair for ~20 minutes and then it did start. Check engine light did not come on. I thought the problem was fixed. I checked the engine timing again and ran the codes:
dynamic test failure = i didnt hit the accelerator during the test

No biggie, I wanted to take a ride around the block and let the new module do its thing. I turned off the engine and disconnected the code reader and the timing light. The engine would not start again.

I switched out the ICM for the old one and she started right up. Check engine light back on. Engine timing check is still not correct and now I am running out of ideas.

Any help? Thank you.

~M

 

By now, you should know you just can't switch electronic parts unless they are for a specific vehicle.
At this time I think engine timing isn't very important, but the starting problem and shifting problem deserve more attention'
The only connection that I know of relating to the clutch and brake pedals is where they pivot under the dash.
Could you have something catching a wire or not making a good ground connection under that dash?
Does the area that the pedals pivot on need lubrication?
When you say hard shifting , please be more specific.
Is it hard to move the stick, or does it grind while trying to get into gear?
What are you doing and exactly what happens when you try to do it?

 

Hey, thanks for helping out.

The ICM that I switched out was the second of two that I bought from Kragen O'Reilly specifically for this vehicle. The reason that I put the old one back in was because the first new one caused very erratic behavior and eventually would not start the vehicle. I switched it out at the store for another new one. I refrained from putting the second new one in for two or three weeks because the truck was running fine with the old one. !?!

The other day I was driving the truck around at low speeds through a long succession of stop signs. The check engine light turned off, the engine ran more smoothly, and (it might just be a mental thing but,) the car seemed to shift better. This lasted for the rest of the day. The next day the check engine light came back on and the idle went back to dropping.

The shifting thing is a problem in that it takes an increased amount of pressure to physically push the shifter into its slot. I can usually get it in, but with more force than I feel is acceptable for the gears. It usually takes a few seconds while I jiggle and double clutch frantically before cars behind me start beeping. Occasionally, it will grind into gear, even while stopped. Being on a hill or pothole helps as the gears will line up and allow the shift as I roll an inch or two.
I feel like this was not a problem during that one day without the check engine light on.

The pedal action seems normal and I would say most likely not having to do with simple mechanical friction.

Could the system be acting on a sort of standard or default mode due to a faulty solenoid, sensor, or module?