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94 escort wont shift, PLEASE HELP!!

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  #11  
Old 11-24-2011 | 05:29 PM
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Ok, so I was wrong. Just hope it stays that way. You'd probably be better off trying to repair the fans. The relays had a long history of getting water in them and clicking, but not making contact. It would be hard to control when the hi speed fan should come on, unless you plan on making this the kind of switch that just comes on when the car is started.
 
  #12  
Old 11-24-2011 | 10:13 PM
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94: If the relay is fine than the voltage drops somewhere else. Maybe there is a short or brake in the wire. Also there should be a temperature switch sending the signal to the relay. In an old Volkswagen Jetta it is on the backside of the radiator. I don't know where it is in the Escort. It shouldn't cost much, maybe 3 roses worth.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and greetings to GF.
 
  #13  
Old 11-27-2011 | 10:18 PM
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im gonna put it in so it comes on when i put power to it w the switch...and as far as the jettas go i know all about those fan problems bluewind..i had a 97 GL and my fan would never turn off and it was the thermoswitch that u were talkin about...i think ur right about the wire bein bad somewhere...just dont know where to begin looking for the suspect wire...any ideas on how i can set up the switch to the fan im all ears.
 
  #14  
Old 11-28-2011 | 01:52 PM
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Honestly, I don't like to jury-rig something like this. Why not doing it right? Learn to do a voltage drop test (Youtube, google) and find the fault? I suppose you can follow the wires from the blower motor back to where ever it comes from. Did you look at the Haynes Manual diagrams?

If there is no temp switch then the signal may come from the ECM via the ECT sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature).
 

Last edited by bluewind; 11-28-2011 at 01:58 PM.
  #15  
Old 11-29-2011 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by bluewind
Honestly, I don't like to jury-rig something like this. Why not doing it right? Learn to do a voltage drop test (Youtube, google) and find the fault? I suppose you can follow the wires from the blower motor back to where ever it comes from. Did you look at the Haynes Manual diagrams?

If there is no temp switch then the signal may come from the ECM via the ECT sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature).

i got the haynes manual and im really not trying to replace wires and ****...its only going to cause more problems i think...i just want to have it so i can turn it off and on as i please...and i know how to do a voltage drop test, i just dont want to start back probing wires and possibly messing something else up. idk i think if i just bring power to it and ground the switch out i will be ok..but i will look at the haynes manual to check the diagrams out and see how i feel about it at that point.
 
  #16  
Old 11-29-2011 | 02:49 PM
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I am a bit disappointed, 94! First you yell for "HELP PLEASE!!!", and now you tell us you just want to mess around with that car? Looks like someone is wasting bandwidth!
 
  #17  
Old 11-29-2011 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 94escortlx
i just want to have it so i can turn it off and on as i please...
Most cars measure engine coolant temperature ON THE ENGINE BLOCK while the fan is controlled by a switch ON THE RADIATOR. You need that switch so that the RADIATOR temperature stays within the optimal range. The engine will close its thermostat once it evacuated all excess heat from the cylinders, but the tranny has no such choice. Unlike SUVs and trucks, most cars (to my knowledge) have the tranny cooler integrated with the radiator, so monitoring its temperature is critical.

This is why turning it on and off as you please is not good enough... However, since we're talking about your car here, toasting it or not is ultimately your decision.
 
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