can i get a push in the right direction here?
#1
12-22-2009 | 10:04 PM
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2
can i get a push in the right direction here?
First off i would like to say thank you for any help or opinions offered. I sincerely respect and appreciate it. I have been out of work for a few months and had planned on being in the coast guard at this point but my application has been put on hold for a bogus reason.(deals with ADD and how i havnt taken medicine for it in over 6 years they want to say it may be an issue) Ok I have a few minor issues (well hope there minor) with my 97 4.6l 4x4 f150 lariat supercab Auto with 141k miles. been lurking around the forums but never posted. Now i am at a loss on what to try next and my dad is semi frustrated with me about trying to get him to help troubleshoot it.(he is a mechanic for 35+ years so im know he doesnt wanna work on them when he isnt working). I have 3 problems. i need a push/shove in the right directions.
we will start with the newest of the 3 issues. This issue just started about a week ago. When moving forward slowly accelerating (and at the moment usually seems to only happen when i first start driving not after i have hit the interstate) it sounds like a scratching noise coming from the front. almost like if brush was going across paint or a chalk board. I have no clue on this one.
2nd problem started happening about a month or so ago. Only happens when backing up. Slow and i mean very slow i dont hear it much, But if i give it much if any gas i hear a knocking noise varying on the speed i am going in reverse. I try not to go in reverse since i dont know what this issue is. the sound does seem to come from the front but i could very well be mistaken. Now this next bit of info could be nothing or this could help. I changed out the front rotors and brake pads last year, but never have done anything with the rear drums. I am sure the rear drums are about shot and need to be completely done. When backing up the other day out of a steep driveway i had left the E brake on. The noise was way worse this time (altho i of course probably used more power to get up the hill/ebrake) when i got out of the driveway i put it in forward and seems the rear brakes kinda locked up on me for a second. released the ebrake and went on fine. So either ebrake might of locked down or i may of just been stupid.
3rd problem has been an ongoing fight with EGR p0401 code. gotta love it. Well i have read and read and read issues on this. Either i am missing something or just unsure what to do next. Before reading anything on this error i went off my dads advice...well sort of haha. He told me that even if i replace the EGRvalve/sensor i could still have the problem. basically saying its a finicky thing. I went and bought a new EGR sensor from the factory. When taking off my lines for my sensor i noticed corrosion from the metal sensor(original) in the tubes. cleared those tubes out and put everything back together. few miles later EGR code back on. So i gave up on it at the time (This was a year ago.) over the past year i have been reading up on EGR issues and ways people have fixed theres. So a few weeks ago i pulled off the egr valve. Being stupid i didnt check to see if it was functioning before i started cleaning it. After cleaning out the egr valve i put suction on it and could hear/feel it operating properly. Put it back on and made it about 50-80 miles before having the EGR fault come back on me.Now again coming on about every 15-30 miles. Now i cant recall if i cleaned where the egr goes back into the intake/manifold. Maybe i missed something to clean there? if cleaning out the EGR valve and replacing the sesor didnt work how do i test the EGR solenoid and vacuum lines? Also just off hand does anyone know if Advanced or similar cares the vacuum lines for the egr valve?
Again folks Thank you very very much for any help towards these issues.
we will start with the newest of the 3 issues. This issue just started about a week ago. When moving forward slowly accelerating (and at the moment usually seems to only happen when i first start driving not after i have hit the interstate) it sounds like a scratching noise coming from the front. almost like if brush was going across paint or a chalk board. I have no clue on this one.
2nd problem started happening about a month or so ago. Only happens when backing up. Slow and i mean very slow i dont hear it much, But if i give it much if any gas i hear a knocking noise varying on the speed i am going in reverse. I try not to go in reverse since i dont know what this issue is. the sound does seem to come from the front but i could very well be mistaken. Now this next bit of info could be nothing or this could help. I changed out the front rotors and brake pads last year, but never have done anything with the rear drums. I am sure the rear drums are about shot and need to be completely done. When backing up the other day out of a steep driveway i had left the E brake on. The noise was way worse this time (altho i of course probably used more power to get up the hill/ebrake) when i got out of the driveway i put it in forward and seems the rear brakes kinda locked up on me for a second. released the ebrake and went on fine. So either ebrake might of locked down or i may of just been stupid.
3rd problem has been an ongoing fight with EGR p0401 code. gotta love it. Well i have read and read and read issues on this. Either i am missing something or just unsure what to do next. Before reading anything on this error i went off my dads advice...well sort of haha. He told me that even if i replace the EGRvalve/sensor i could still have the problem. basically saying its a finicky thing. I went and bought a new EGR sensor from the factory. When taking off my lines for my sensor i noticed corrosion from the metal sensor(original) in the tubes. cleared those tubes out and put everything back together. few miles later EGR code back on. So i gave up on it at the time (This was a year ago.) over the past year i have been reading up on EGR issues and ways people have fixed theres. So a few weeks ago i pulled off the egr valve. Being stupid i didnt check to see if it was functioning before i started cleaning it. After cleaning out the egr valve i put suction on it and could hear/feel it operating properly. Put it back on and made it about 50-80 miles before having the EGR fault come back on me.Now again coming on about every 15-30 miles. Now i cant recall if i cleaned where the egr goes back into the intake/manifold. Maybe i missed something to clean there? if cleaning out the EGR valve and replacing the sesor didnt work how do i test the EGR solenoid and vacuum lines? Also just off hand does anyone know if Advanced or similar cares the vacuum lines for the egr valve?
Again folks Thank you very very much for any help towards these issues.
#2
12-23-2009 | 10:32 AM
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,489
Welcome to the site..
For the 'knock' towards the back of the truck,, did you check the u joints and driveline flanges for tight? although clunk or noise/chirp symtoms are usually noticed at a slow roll or light throttle tip in both D&R.. Rear brakes usually won't knock, and most times if the brakes are dragged then any loose pieces, anchor plate, caliper ect syptoms may quiet some.. If a driveline issue, dragging the brake may make a loose flange, joint more pronounced.. Something to check...
On the front squeal,, have the pads been checked, or replaced? Did the noise start after a recent brake/pad replacement?
On the 401 code,, the EGR Backpressure Sensor (transducer) is a common problem and failure for a lot of engines/models.. The backpressue sensors fail from condensation, heat, and carbon buildup.. If you unplug the IAC and apply vacuum to the EGR valve does the engine stall or close to? Check for a good vacuum in/out of the EGR solenoid and any routed line damage.. . Check the EGR supply tube for leaks/cracks, the manifold supply tubes for the backpressure sensor, hoses, and if you have it compressed air to check for a good flow.. If it's the original back pressure sensor (?), and you have a good vacuum to the EGR regulator solenoid (and out if opened adding current/gound) , the engine stumbles/stalls when vacuum is applied to the valve then it's a good chance the sensor itself could be setting the code..
For the 'knock' towards the back of the truck,, did you check the u joints and driveline flanges for tight? although clunk or noise/chirp symtoms are usually noticed at a slow roll or light throttle tip in both D&R.. Rear brakes usually won't knock, and most times if the brakes are dragged then any loose pieces, anchor plate, caliper ect syptoms may quiet some.. If a driveline issue, dragging the brake may make a loose flange, joint more pronounced.. Something to check...
On the front squeal,, have the pads been checked, or replaced? Did the noise start after a recent brake/pad replacement?
On the 401 code,, the EGR Backpressure Sensor (transducer) is a common problem and failure for a lot of engines/models.. The backpressue sensors fail from condensation, heat, and carbon buildup.. If you unplug the IAC and apply vacuum to the EGR valve does the engine stall or close to? Check for a good vacuum in/out of the EGR solenoid and any routed line damage.. . Check the EGR supply tube for leaks/cracks, the manifold supply tubes for the backpressure sensor, hoses, and if you have it compressed air to check for a good flow.. If it's the original back pressure sensor (?), and you have a good vacuum to the EGR regulator solenoid (and out if opened adding current/gound) , the engine stumbles/stalls when vacuum is applied to the valve then it's a good chance the sensor itself could be setting the code..
#3
12-23-2009 | 03:29 PM
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2
Welcome to the site..
For the 'knock' towards the back of the truck,, did you check the u joints and driveline flanges for tight? although clunk or noise/chirp symtoms are usually noticed at a slow roll or light throttle tip in both D&R.. Rear brakes usually won't knock, and most times if the brakes are dragged then any loose pieces, anchor plate, caliper ect syptoms may quiet some.. If a driveline issue, dragging the brake may make a loose flange, joint more pronounced.. Something to check...
On the front squeal,, have the pads been checked, or replaced? Did the noise start after a recent brake/pad replacement?
On the 401 code,, the EGR Backpressure Sensor (transducer) is a common problem and failure for a lot of engines/models.. The backpressue sensors fail from condensation, heat, and carbon buildup.. If you unplug the IAC and apply vacuum to the EGR valve does the engine stall or close to? Check for a good vacuum in/out of the EGR solenoid and any routed line damage.. . Check the EGR supply tube for leaks/cracks, the manifold supply tubes for the backpressure sensor, hoses, and if you have it compressed air to check for a good flow.. If it's the original back pressure sensor (?), and you have a good vacuum to the EGR regulator solenoid (and out if opened adding current/gound) , the engine stumbles/stalls when vacuum is applied to the valve then it's a good chance the sensor itself could be setting the code..
For the 'knock' towards the back of the truck,, did you check the u joints and driveline flanges for tight? although clunk or noise/chirp symtoms are usually noticed at a slow roll or light throttle tip in both D&R.. Rear brakes usually won't knock, and most times if the brakes are dragged then any loose pieces, anchor plate, caliper ect syptoms may quiet some.. If a driveline issue, dragging the brake may make a loose flange, joint more pronounced.. Something to check...
On the front squeal,, have the pads been checked, or replaced? Did the noise start after a recent brake/pad replacement?
On the 401 code,, the EGR Backpressure Sensor (transducer) is a common problem and failure for a lot of engines/models.. The backpressue sensors fail from condensation, heat, and carbon buildup.. If you unplug the IAC and apply vacuum to the EGR valve does the engine stall or close to? Check for a good vacuum in/out of the EGR solenoid and any routed line damage.. . Check the EGR supply tube for leaks/cracks, the manifold supply tubes for the backpressure sensor, hoses, and if you have it compressed air to check for a good flow.. If it's the original back pressure sensor (?), and you have a good vacuum to the EGR regulator solenoid (and out if opened adding current/gound) , the engine stumbles/stalls when vacuum is applied to the valve then it's a good chance the sensor itself could be setting the code..
1st off I did check the ujoints and i believe the flanges, They seemed tight. My dad put it on the lift and i am pretty sure he double checked it and said they seemed fine to him, but if i was ever to start feeling a vibration to stop immediatly cause that would be a ujoint about to go and **** um alot more stuff. I will crawl up under her in a min and double check those..Like you said its weird that i am not hearing it going forward only in R.
I had replaced the pads and rotors last year and have not heard any issues, But not a bad idea to check them. I know my brakes have gotten a little squishy as of late. Will have to check them out.
Now on the EGR if we are talking about the same sensor which i belive we are. I replaced that last year and it seemed to clear the code for a short bit but not more then a few hundred miles.i need to go check the lines on it, maybe there is a crack in a line some where. Its just too damn cold to be outside when the wind is blowing trying to troubleshoot something in that area. fan motor blowing colder air all over ya haha.
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