The crankshaft position sensor (CPS) tells the engine when to trigger the spark, if you disconnect that sensor the PCM will think the crankshaft is not rotating at all so why bother ... If the CPS malfunctions for a (very) little while, the engine stalls - this is why other people here were pointing at possible issues with this sensor.

As stated here, skipping one hour of dealership diagnostic buys your own OBD reader - this would probably be your best-spent $100 in a while. Search for ScanGauge 2 (this is the one I'm using, but there are plenty out there, including some overly nice ones connecting to your iPhone via Bluetooth - they make a great impression on babes but don't get along well with greasy hands ).

On the IAC ... this is just what I would do, but I may be wrong, so you'd want to hear from other people here as well: the throttle has a screw that sets its closed position ***just a bit open*** so that the plate won't stick to the throttle body but will stay as tightly closed as possible, so that the only air coming in at idle would go through the IAC valve. Here's an unofficial way to diagnose the IAC valve: take some aluminum foil and wrap it 3-4 times so that it makes a flat spacer, and stick it between the throttle plate adjusting screw and the throttle lever. This will slightly open the throttle, thus raising the idle a bit. If the IAC malfunctions (closing completely, which would make the engine stall), this foil spacer will still give the engine a bit of air to allow it to idle, so the stalls should go away. You can verify if the foil is thick enough by disconnecting the IAC - if it's good, the engine will idle fine. However, while you're playing with the aluminum foil spacer, your idle will be all over the place (because the idle is normally regulated by the IAC to make up for variable loads such as power steering and AC). Don't worry - if the stalls are gone, you just caught the culprit - the IAC.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT TRY TO ADJUST THE THROTTLE PLATE SCREW!!

HTH ...

Cheers,
cougar_fan

 

Awesome - and yes I will try thast on the IAC. As a fyi the engine light did come on and the scan at the auto part store said CrankSensor. So I am windering if the CrankSensor could cause the car to stall at Idle, or do we keep playing with the IAC?

I also did spend the $80 to have the dealership computer run the diagnostics and they found nothing. Of course the next morning it stalled (ugggh).

Anyway it looks like the CrankSensor is causing the issue per the computer at the auto part store. Its a $35 part so well worth it doing it myself.

Thanks all for the replies! Folks like you makes me want to remain loyal to Ford!!!

 

A CPS that's acting up can definitely cause engine stalls, so you're right: change that sensor first - especially since the PCM has set a code about it. I would also check the associated wiring and connector, you can have a good sensor with a bad connector that can cause intermittent circuit faults

Good luck, and keep us posted!

Cheers,
cougar_fan

 

gopherMN, I have the exact same problem.
Mine's a 2001 Mustang with 124,000 miles.
Keep us updated.

 

JKing, well as I mentioned earlier it was stalling when at the light or stop sign. I replaced the CamSensor and its been 2 weeks and no stall. So I am thinking the CamSensor caused the headaches.

Of course now I am dealing with the RPM's bouncing from 1000 to 2000 for 2 to 3 minutes or until the engine is warm.
When the engine is cold it seems when I start it, the engine bounces back n forth for a few minutes. I sit there watching the RPM's bounce 1000, 2000, 1000, 2000, etc.
Now when the engine is warm it no longer bounces.
I did put in a IAC (Idle Air Control) and nothing. Someone was telling me it could be the TPS Throttle Position Sensor.
Ugggh!

 

Ok, sorry I lost you. Try thumping the batt. junction box (the one on top of the radiator) lightly and watch for a reaction out of the car. Sometimes, the EEC power or fuel pump relays can get pitted and open up. These problems are a bear to find, but stay with it. One other thing; usually (NOT always), the crank sensors will either work or not; sometimes, they open up when they get hot or cold, but usually don't cuase this problem. However, Hanky is (as usual) right in that they are very difficult to diagnose. Usually, they are replaced and you watch to see if the problem goes away or changes at all.