Hi, all...

I posted a couple weeks ago, nervous about cracking open my Motorcraft/Ford 2100 carburetor, a job I feared might be beyond me. But with some instructions I found online (on Advance Auto Parts' website, actually), I managed to remove the carb from my engine, disassemble it and rebuild it in about three hours' time. (Hey, it was my first time.)

Anyway, after an initial fuel leak (I had put the power valve cover on backward and crimped the gasket, but then fixed it), the car got me to my hometown for Christmas and back, and I've been driving it ever since.

The thing is: It's been running raggedy at idle, like maybe there's a vacuum leak somewhere, but I'll be damned if I can find it. Today I backed the air/fuel mixture screws WAY out, and it started running really smoothly. But I know that can't be right...the screws shouldn't be nearly this far out.

So I guess I'm just curious as to what avenues I might explore to remedy this situation. Remember, I am reasonably capable with tools and instructions, but I am NOT a gifted mechanic. And I have no diagnostic tools (timing light, vacuum gauge, etc.) and no budget to buy any, either. I'll be able to spend some time with a better-equipped buddy in the near future, but in the meantime, if you guys can maybe throw out some suggestions as to where to start looking, I'd sure appreciate it.

Thanks!
Carmody
Wichita, Kansas USA
Air Capital of the World

 

When looking for vacume leaks I use starting fluid lightly with the engine runnig. Adjusting the carb with a vacume gauge is easyest. Make sure the timming is correct first. Then adj. the carb mixture to the highest vacuse level you can reach,