ORIGINAL: Hayapower

Are you sure it actually ran out of fuel in the first place? The 'in tank' fuel pumps need to be submerged for the most part to help keep the pump motor cool.. If the pump/tank is continually allowed to run extreme low to empty, (my wife) it can shorten the pumps life.. Or,, if a high mileage truck (original pump) could be that the pump is weak or failing on it's own and running it empty is/was the final nail.. A smaller amount of water should have been captured in the filter, or remained on the bottom of the tank since it sounds like it wasn't driven much, andunless a large amout probably would have made for a misfire/stumble and general poor performance over a basicallly dead throttle.. Low pressure/volume will cause a 'fall on it's face' condition.. Since your unsure of the fuel/water content, take a fuel sample off s the fuel rail and let it stand to see if any volume of H2o is there or cloudy..But, some of the fuel additives can cause the fuel to be slightly clouded, letting it stand will usually cause water/fuel seperation..It would also really help to know what the fuel pressure/volume is at the fuel rail since it sounds fuel related, or possibly could have damaged the pump.. A fuel pressure/volume test would be the frst place to go.. Be careful in taking a fuel test, it is under pressure and flameable.. You can buy an inexpensive test gauge kit for about 15.00 or so..

Thanks for your time with my question. I got 2 more questions for you please.

What are the symptoms of a bad fuel pump. It it is weird it will start up and idle fine after a few tries and after a few min. But when I go to take off it goes for a sec then bucks then stalls.

Also how hard it it to repace the fuel pump on my 97 f-150 it is 4.2 6 cyl. Not 4x4 if that helps.

Do I have to drop the tank and can I do this alone. ??? Thanks again for your time.

JOHN

ORIGINAL: Hayapower

Hi John..

Being that there wasn't any running issues or CEL (check engine light) prior to the low/empty tank? then the first place I'd look/check would be the fuel pressure at the fuel rail on top ofthe engine as a 'starting point' on the stall diagnosis.. Especially if you may suspect polluted fuel, and a fuel sample may answer some questions or point in a direction to go.. What can happen if a weak or failing pump or even a restricted filter ect. would be that it may take a few 'key cycles' or start/crank attempts to build enough fuel pressure to run the engine andto have it idle.. Then,, when the throttle is applied the engine load increases and the extra fuel demand exhausts the available pressure 'and' volume in the fuel rail/lines causing the stall.. The fuel pressure/volume test really should done prior to any other work at this point to 'at least' take the fuel pump/filter and needed good fuel supply out of the stall diagnostic..

The fuel pump is inside the tank, and not a terrible job to do if the tests proves out the pump to be suspect, but you'll need the fuel line 'quick coupler' release tool to get the fuel lines off the top of the tank module.. Raising the rig for some access/clearence to get the tank out and down, and a jack to not only help with the weight (tank empty as possible) but to free up your hands to work with..

Both the test gauge kit and the line release tools are availble at most aftermarket parts store ect. or even stores like Harbor Frieght at low costs.. I can help you with the tech proceedures and some docs/illustrations should you want to tackle the job...