1998 ford escort overheating
#2
07-01-2010 | 04:11 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 15,301
You didn't state what kind of pressure test. Cooling system or compression?
Did anyone check the thermostat? Is the cooling system full of junk or corosion? Is the electric coolong fan working? Could you be a little more helpful and provide some more info. Thanks, hanky
Did anyone check the thermostat? Is the cooling system full of junk or corosion? Is the electric coolong fan working? Could you be a little more helpful and provide some more info. Thanks, hanky
#3
07-02-2010 | 03:54 AM
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2
compression test yeah the thermostat was tested and that is working great and there aint any junk or corosion
and it as got the garage puzzled
and the fan is working
the the garage thinks that the fan should kick in earlier to wot it shuold
and it as got the garage puzzled
and the fan is working
the the garage thinks that the fan should kick in earlier to wot it shuold
#4
07-02-2010 | 05:42 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 15,301
Does the vehicle have A/C ? If it does, When you turn the A/C on does the electric cooling fan come on at the same time? It should.
Vehicles with electric cooling fans don't usually come on until the engine temp reaches 200 degrees F or more. It is possible the temp sensor to turn on the fan isn't working properly. Also , a defective radiator cap or a coolant mixture with insufficient anti-freeze concentration will lower the boiling point of the coolant.
Just because the water pump was replaced a while ago doesn't remove it from the possible problem. I have found that a temperature sensing gun (Raytek) has proven very helpful in determining just where the high temp is originating.
Can the shop get the temperature to rise to the critical point with the engine running and the vehicle not moving?
This would help eliminate any possibility of driveline contributing to the problem.
The process of combustion generates heat in the engine. The water pump circulates the coolant through the radiator once the thermostat opens. The coolant fan then removes the heat from the coolant and sends cooled coolant back to the engine to remove the heat generated. That's the cycle and the only thing to do, is determine which link of the chain isn't doing its job. A good process of elimination will prevent replacing a lot of good parts hoping to hit the problem. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Thanks, hanky
Vehicles with electric cooling fans don't usually come on until the engine temp reaches 200 degrees F or more. It is possible the temp sensor to turn on the fan isn't working properly. Also , a defective radiator cap or a coolant mixture with insufficient anti-freeze concentration will lower the boiling point of the coolant.
Just because the water pump was replaced a while ago doesn't remove it from the possible problem. I have found that a temperature sensing gun (Raytek) has proven very helpful in determining just where the high temp is originating.
Can the shop get the temperature to rise to the critical point with the engine running and the vehicle not moving?
This would help eliminate any possibility of driveline contributing to the problem.
The process of combustion generates heat in the engine. The water pump circulates the coolant through the radiator once the thermostat opens. The coolant fan then removes the heat from the coolant and sends cooled coolant back to the engine to remove the heat generated. That's the cycle and the only thing to do, is determine which link of the chain isn't doing its job. A good process of elimination will prevent replacing a lot of good parts hoping to hit the problem. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Thanks, hanky
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