I'm having problems with my '99 Ford Escort Sedan 2.0L 4cyl (Split Port Induction 2000) engine where it won't start (originally I thought it was a 1.9L). It has 128K miles. I haven't been able to start the engine since Sat-18-Aug when it died in the middle of driving (I had just pulled out of the gas station after filling up with Gas at a gas station and the engine stopped). I am new at car performance troubleshooting and am learning as I go. Below is some history and a checklist of my investigation thus far. I have no engine codes/lights/indicators and the error code scanner did not see anything. Please let me know if you have any insight, additions, or corrections. I'd like to get this thing running again soon. Thanks.
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RECENT NEWS: I was able to get engine to run for ~5min Sat-25-Aug when doing fuel pressure test and I have a video of the pressure test values and the ugly knocking sound of engine. The engine does turn over (flywheel spins) and my electronics work OK in general and Batter is 13V when not in use.
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HISTORY: several months ago (end of 2011-2012 winter in western Idaho) starting was rough and it sound like something broke, stripped, or jumped (it was a single loud short clank/crack sound), but it was cold & rainy and so I just went on with work that day (car started up). I checked later that day and did not see any broken pieces or anything out of the ordinary. I thought maybe a fan blade broke off, but it was fine. I had an overheating problem at that same time. After investigation I realized I had not maintained coolant and the reservoir was empty. This may have been a problem for a while, but it was winter and I always had heater/fan on full blast which helped cool engine. It wasn't until the season started to warm up that I realized I had an overheating problem. I filled reservoir and my overheating problem went away never to return. Then for past several weeks I would have intermittent hard/noisy starting usually in morning when starting engine to go to work, and then frequency increased to happening also at work just before leaving to go home. Frequency increased, but I was always able to start driving and at higher speeds the rough performance/sound was not present. Saturday 18-Aug was the first time that my engine actually quit working.
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CHECKLIST: 1.] SPARK, 2.] FUEL, 3.] COMPRESSION, 4.] TIMING
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1.] SPARK: I removed each spark plug one at a time, set it on engine and cranked engine = visible spark (I thought it was white/yellow in color - I have been advised to check again to make sure it is bright blue/white).
NOTES:
-- battery and other electronics seem OK. Batter is ~2yrs old and spark plug and cables are ~1yr old (I need to check my maintenance logbook on both items).
-- I replaced spark plugs/cables ~1yr ago due to engine code for a cylinder not firing. I think I may have bought the cheaper plugs and not OEM...not sure, I need to check.
TO DO:
Possibly check spark arc again, but I am moving to other items first.
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2.] FUEL: When I turn key to ON position I hear fuel pump start up for a few seconds at same time I hear a whirring sound in engine compartment for a few seconds. I've read that is a good sign (stuff is working). A fuel pressure test (at fuel rail valve) showed ~37psi before running, 39psi while running, and 39psi for over 10min after engine was off again. I have a video of this while engine is running. My manual specs 35-45psi not running & 30-40psi while running as long as I have a 1.9L engine, and that is should not drop more than 5psi after engine stops running. I dusted off the sticker and it says 2.0L and the VIN# also brings up 2.0L when calling auto parts stores. I thought it was a 1.9L because the drive belt config matched that of a pic labeled 1.9L, and the 2.0L was very different, but a closer look reveals the 2.0L pic is for a Zetec engine and mine is SPI. Since mine IS a 2.0L then the spec is 50-85psi not running & 25-35psi running. New pumps for my car are spec'd at 80-90psi according to auto part store. Is this cause to suspect a faulty fuel pump and/or clogged fuel filter?
NOTES:
-- Before I did the pressure test I relieved the fuel pressure with a switch behind panel by left foot driverside per instruction from my manual. I hooked up pressure gauge and saw 0psi, enabled pressure and turned key to ON and still had 0psi. I removed gauge and then loosened the valve on the fuel rail and saw fuel leak out. I then tightened the valve back on and pushed valve pin on with a small-ended punch tool and fuel squirted out. I placed the fuel gauge back on the valve again and I turned key ON & OFF several times (~10+?) allowing fuel pump to make noise each time. This brought pressure up to 37psi.
-- FYI, I had already replaced the fuel filter ~1yr ago just before I replaced spark plugs (related to issue from 1yr ago). -- Air filter looks very white and clean (I see sun/light through it).
TO DO:
Check fuel injectors (not sure how yet), and anything in air path leading to engine (throttle body?) such as vacuum leaks. I've seen videos where this is done by spraying brake cleaner by/on hoses... sounds like fun, if I can get the engine to run long enough. I also need to check cleanliness of air patch and parts in that path (MAF? intake manifold? other stuff? ...to be researched).
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3.] COMPRESSION: I need to check for compression which I believe is just plugging a gauge into spark plug hole while all spark plugs are out. I can rent a compression tester, check my car manual and watch you-tube videos for help (Eric the Car Guy). I hear that possible problems could be damaged/worn valves, pistons, gaskets.
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4.] TIMING: engine turns over OK and has spark, but not sure if belt is off a tooth or damaged. A quick peak inside timing belt cover shows it looks clean and not loose. I have to remove an engine mount, the drive belt, and jack up a side of the engine to fully remove the timing belt cover. I have read that I need to check that the marks on bottom and top wheel/pulley are pointed up, and that 2 full rotations of the bottom wheel with a socket wrench should show marks to still be pointing straight up.
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OTHER STUFF: It's time to change the oil, oil filter, and the drive belt since it looks like it needs changing (it has some cracks on underside and a spot with a little fraying, but seems to be working OK). Transmission fluid is at OK level but has been dark for some time now. Coolant, brake fluid, steering fluid are all at OK levels.
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SUMMARY:
+ replace fuel pump and fuel filter???
+ check vacuum lines for leaks
+ check parts along air path for damage, blockage, contamination
+ do compression check
+ check timing belt & wheels if both marks up even after 2 rotations
+ check spark plug for blue arc, brand, gap