Where do I start?

I came across this site while looking up the car I had just purchased. A white 1977 Ford Pinto hatchback, the listing caught my eye. at the price I got it for it was the only car with the ability to drive. I picked it up unregistered - The engine was loud, the exhaust smelled and it was my first time experiencing a car that didn't have power steering or normal brakes. Upon driving away with the vehicle I got a text from the guy who sold it to me "Let me know if you get home okay" . . I immediately put my palm to my face

but I also put blind faith in the car and took it 40 miles that night, over the San Mateo bridge to my girlfriend's house. The next morning I took my girlfriend on the trip we were planning to Santa Cruz, that's a round trip of over 200 miles in a car that is unregistered and unproven. I was completely unfamiliar with the vehicle and just set myself down a 200 mile road that sometimes loses cell phone reception, this may of been the most risky decision I've ever made with a car . . . but, it made it!

That's right, unregistered . . smogging galore down the California streets. The car made it there and back safely. Even with a cop behind me at one point

Here's the problems, I've never really worked on a car and I feel over my head but I'll be damned if I'm going to get rid of this thing for less than I paid for it! . . mrrrrumph!

it doesn't start up right away if it's your first time driving it that day. It starts up easily but you need to give it some gas . . what's the diagnosis and how do I fix this?

the exhaust smell . . what can I do to fix this? Sadly I once had a 1997 Ford Probe that had a similar exhaust smell.

the engine seems to be all original, what can I replace and how much will it cost me? What should I do first to get this car up to road worthy standard?

also if we have any interior experts here, the carpet seems to have some rot and some tears . . I've found a carpet kit for the car but I looked up a video of how to install and it seems like a large task to undertake . . you have to lift the car to remove the seats and then tear out the old rug and place rug in it . .

I bought window handled because the car came with clamps to open the window, I ordered them online and they're suppose to be for the Ford Pinto, it looks like they fit but then they just don't grip the screw thing

Also, the gas gauge doesn't work . . I'd imagine this is an expensive repair for someone who doesn't know how to do it?

 

Welcome to the site..

The car is 36 years old and really should be checked out before any more excursions. Especially since you have no history of what was ever done to it, or by whom, and the quality of any prior repairs. By unregistered,, you mean not transferred into your name, correct? If the tags are expired and your not the owner on record during a traffic stop or stuck on the roadside , they can/will impound the car. At least in CA.

The pinto/2.3 was actually a really solid car! Other than the tank/fuel/rear ending concern. I've owned a few many years ago, and worked on quite a few of them. I would bet many other members here too have some wrench time.

How many miles on the car (taking into account the odometer limits)? Given its vintage, and without any hands on time/checks, carb. work at least may be needed. More so if its sat or was stored for a long time. Is the idle 'stable' other then the rich condition? No misfire, rough idle?

Compression check would be a good starting point to verify base engine issues that could affect idle, driveabilty, emissions, and always a good practice on any vintage car prior to making cosmetic investments or replacing good parts.

If the compression were low, wouldn't be much point moving forward unless you wanted to save it. Compression can affect cold start and overall running condition. Does it burn oil/visibly smoke from the tail pipe? Given its age (and you state it looks all original) checking the vitals would be a good move and simple to do. Vacuum leaks, emission, fuel quality (prior), could all be contributors. Sometimes posting video, images or area/s of concern are a good helping tool. Otherwise we're in the dark. Basic tests/checks you can do to get a better 'feel' on a direction to go. Loud meaning? simple exhaust/muffler repair, engine noise/manifold or? This is where we need detailed help to give better direction.

Auto or manual trans?

 

If I could go back I'd put a new exhaust and cold air intake on my Mustang. This is possibly the stupidest thing I've ever done but I'll strive to make something positive of it, however that transformation may come . . I'm even willing to sell it but if that's not a possibility (which it seems like it's not) I wanna get this car in road worthy condition.

I know there was a tremendous amount of risk involved in driving the car but, in very atypical fashion of me, I just threw my hat in the air and put my faith in it. I admit, that trip is the LITERAL definition of insane . . worst case scenarios leaning from the extremes of being pulled over, impounded and heavily fined or the car brakes down and the towing/repair/taxi ride great exceed the value of the car. I'm keeping it off the road until I get plates next week and although I'm worried that sitting may corrode it's health but then I remind myself that this car has been here long before me, hopefully I can prolong it's life . . I just really don't have any experience with any pre-90s car.

I bought her with the title already exchanging hands a few times before, my sense is that nobody had the courage to register it. I've looked up the fees which are in excess of $500. In my mind I pretend that I got this car for a lot cheaper than I did

The odometer shows fives digits which are at 22,000 . . can somebody tell me why cars manufactured in the 70s only have 5 digits? I guess that would be acceptable . . if the car wasn't expected to have a life of over 100,000 miles. It was obviously an entry level Ford and I've come to learn that it was also one of the cheapest new cars available at the time. My neighbor told me that people keep them until they paid them off and then junk it after 4 years Through a little research I found Ford's mission and goals for the Pinto line and it seems that this car was made to be economical and low maintenance. I believe it's suppose to get 25 MPG I've been counting the miles and the amount of gas used (subtracting the amount I fill up at the pump since the fuel gauge doesn't work) and I have the car at about 20 MPG . . jeeze, coulda got an Expedition or Excursion if I wanted those numbers

I also just ordered this book . . if I can learn a single thing about fixing a car that would make this whole experience worth it. I mean what better way to learn than self-education and first hand experience . . but to be practical I don't even have the tools or the space to work on it, so I'll need to at least get the main things out of the way with the help of a professional . . maybe I can learn on the sidelines. I'd like to source all my own parts should anything be replaced

Honestly, I wouldn't know what a misfire sounds like . . but on a few occasions I've heard something that sounded like round got fired from a musket. This happened about twice . . once while coming off the highway. There's no idling problems but the car begins to shake at 55 MPH but stayed there consistently . . you can bring it up to about 60 and you'll find yourself at 65 when you have to be but it doesn't seem like a safe speed. The car is pretty loud at this point. Also while coming onto the highway it takes everything you've got, pedal down . . (the dash doesn't display RPMs but I'd imagine they're floored all the way up there) to reach highway speed, you first approach 45 before bringing it to 55, you get a slight shake and then then it holds steady . . you can cruise there

I have a mechanic that's been working on my Mustang since I got it but I'd probably want to find someone different for this, I just spent $1600 replacing the rear axle of my Mustang. I've never seen him working on anything but Honda's now that I think about it, I'll probably look for someone experienced in Ford's or perhaps a Mustang specialist familiar with the 77 4 cylinder and might be willing to take a look at the Pinto.
Mustang II was made on Pinto chassis . . apparently bad years for the Mustang? I actually saw a 4 cylinder 77 Mustang listed near me and it was in phenomenal condition . . less than 40,000 miles (unless it's a 5 digit odometer). If you think about it the Pinto is really the Mustang's baby brother that Ford swept under the rug.

The first thing I should get would be a compression check? What's that and how is it done? How much would one of those run me? Also the vacuum leaks thing? There is some visible smoke from the tail pipe but not TOO much. I believe the loudness is a combination of engine noise and exhaust

If I were to just get a Flowmaster exhaust and have it installed . . would we be moving in the right direction?

 

Your neighborhood looks familiar. I used to live in Daly City. My GP's lived in SF..

By checking the compression it gives the 'base engine' sort of a health check. Its done by removing all the spark plugs, screwing in a pressure test gauge and simply cranking the engine over to see the 'max' pressure 'each' cylinder can build or produce during a cranking cycle. All get checked and they should be fairly equal, and not below spec or too low so not fire properly. Tailpipe smoke sort of gives an indication that its on its way to wearing out. Oily/heavy carboned, or wet spark plugs can tell a story as well as far a base engine issues. Doesn't necessarily mean the compression is bad if there's 'some' blue smoke, but a check just establishes a 'base' or start point when trying to diagnose running/performance issues and a direction to go. Without decent compression, your beating a tired horse and its just go to know info. before moving forward.

Places like Harbor Freight sell them for about 20.00ish or I think Autozone has a 'loan a tool' program where your not spending you cash on tool purchases.

So, no large oil leaks, coolant leaks ect.? Anti freeze color is?
(green hopefully) rust red?, hoses, belts, are questions I'd ask since along with possible base engine problems (given its vintage and miles), and costs to correct, can affect the repair guidelines..

'Say',, it runs pretty darn good,,, and the cooling system (coolant) is polluted and rusted looking like tomato juice and on a trip or normal traffic driving the engine block freeze/expansion plugs have rotted out and it bleeds the coolant out and overheats severe or damages the engine. You now have a dead soldier with nice exhaust..

I'd think getting the running condition straightened out, and some simple checks and test done (even if at the street side) would be job 1. If you need help, post'm up along with any pics and such so we know what your looking at

Car doesn't look too bad from here

 

That's outside my friend's place over along that way south of the city.

Will disconnecting the spark plugs cause damage? I should probably have the test done by someone who's a professional and knows how to interpret the readings, in what range should the results be?

After that we check the anti-freeze, if the antifreeze is a bad color would changing it be the thing to do?

 

Guess where my point and novels are going is,,

Sometimes you need to establish or prove out 'whats right' with the car/engine first (best you can) rather than guess whats generally wrong. More so on high mileage, vintage cars.

Once you know you have a decent platform to build off of,

then the direction becomes clearer and you may have a better idea of cash involved or weather you even want to go down that road. Base engine/mechanical repairs, transmission issues (more so automatics) can empty a wallet pretty quick. And adding tune up pieces, carb related parts, wouldn't generally help an engine suffering the Ill's of below acceptable compression possibly due to failing internal engine hard parts for instance flat camshaft, bad valves, rings, head gasket etc.

You mention engine noise (?) which we're not clear on. Engine knocking, tapping/rattle? or can you pin the noises to other bolt on components generating noise 'notes' . This is where posting a short video would help where we could hear what you do. If nothing of concern, move on. If troublesome sounding or severe, then follow 'these steps' for a next step.

Sometimes a simple oil sample taken can tell a story such as suspended metals in the lube or collected on/around the drain plug. Checking coolant color/condition just takes some of the cooling system failure possibilities off the table, hopefully. Sometimes, if the coolant is full of rust it means either it was never cared for or changed, or, there is/was a leak and the previous owner/s just kept adding water.


With little to no tools, you've established a hopefully good base engine (still not clear on the noise/s you hear), and you've narrowed the repair and potential cash outlay possibilities some.

Disconnecting the plug wires won't damage anything and during a test just ground the coil wire removed form the distributor cap. Could disconnect the coil too. Do the test on a warmed engine.

Places like Harbor Freight have screw in compression tester/gauge kits for about teens-20.00ish I think. You'd just need a spark plug socket/driver, and the gauge. I believe Autzone and maybe others have a 'Loan a Tool' program where you can use the test equipment without purchasing.

Compression pressure would be nice to see in the 130 +/- range but may be wishful thinking for a vintage higher mileage engine. A rule of thumb is to not have them exceed 10% pressure seperation. So even 120-125 is acceptable, or a tad less, but more is better. Usually if you have 1 low cylinder pressure reading (or more) you know it! just by the engines idle. And the pressure ranges can differ and dip below, but the idea is a more 'balanced' reading. When the pressure/s start to drop down towards the 100lb range engine performance (as well as engine condition start to become a concern) falls off..

Its just a health check of the engine, as is the cooling system check. Just gives a general idea of the 'state' of the basic engine, and cooling system capability and overall conditions...

 

Oh man, first car and it's a project car? Oof, good luck to you!

 

I appreciate all of the advice, I've just registered the vehicle today so I'mma have someone take a look at it, as soon as I get it on the road I'll have some videos

First car from the 70s, I also have a 98 Mustang and 97 Ford Probe. Prior to that my first car was a 2005 Dodge Neon SXT which is essentially my rubric for low maintenance and reliability, that's the only car I've had to part ways with because it was wrecked in a rock slide along the California coast early 2012. My Ford Probe is still located on the east coast and will likely need a new battery (I put a new one in right before leaving in late 2011 but it hasn't been started since . . possibly just a charge). With a little work the 77 Pinto will have less exhaust smell than the Probe which continued to have that problem even after repairs were done.

 

Good news, doesn't seem to be any vacuum leaks. Car was recently tuned up. Just need to fix the gas gauge which always reads empty, could it be the fuse or will I have to drop the fuel tank?

 

For a check, find the sender wire near the tank. Ground the wire and the gauge should make a full sweep over to 'full'. If it does the in tank sending unit float probably has sunk. They were a hollow brass cylinder type float and they liked to crack under the attaching arm flooding the float with fuel then they just sat on the tank bottom..