My 03 idles rough, jerks while driving at all speeds. Also getting lousy gas mileage. Any ideas?

 

Before offering any suggestions that could cost you $$ it is important to know when things like spark plugs ,wires, coils etc were changed and if so when and by whom.
I know this sounds terrible , but having been bitten a few times by overlooking the basics we did learn something.
Ign parts don't last forever, and sometimes a "recent --tune-up " can leave the job with a cracked spark plug for example. So if you could provide some addl info it would be very helpful. Thanks !

 

Thanks for the reply. Truth is this car belongs to my daughter. I don't have any idea what or if anybody has done anything to help. I've gotten lazy in my old age. I'll do some good trouble shooting and let you know what I find.

 

I agree with hanky. Windstars react very nicely to a new set of ignition parts: coil pack, wires, plugs.
In addition have a look at these things:
IMRC bushings. On the passenger side of the engine sits a black box with 2 wire arms extending to the front and back. These wire arms should connect to the intake runner control levers. There should be a small white bushing at each joint. 2 at the black box and 2 at the levers. A set of bushings is about $3.00


Check the vehicle's history for a replacement of the isolator bolt bushings. If it never has been done and you have rough, loping idle when cold, but o.k. idling when warm you need to replace the isolator bolt bushings.

Since the vehicle has been operating awhile under adverse condition it could have more carbon build up than normal. A "Seafoam " treatment could help.

 

I will be getting my old van back in a day or so. I'll be working on it this weekend.
Thanks, I'll keep you guys up dated. This is going to be fun.

 

My van is now back in my driveway. The first thing I did was, open the hood and look for the IMRC bushings "Bluewind" suggested. What I found was very obvious, one of the IMRC arms was broken. The one closest to the front of the vehicle. It is pulled out of the hole and jammed agensted the intake. Of course the bushing is gone. How hard is it going to be to replace? There is a "U- pull and pay" not very far away. I do know that they have quite a few Windstars.
Thanks, Ken

 

Bingo!
How hard is it to replace? It depends on the size and dexterity of your fingers. Paul Bunion would hate this job!
I use size M or L gloves. With minor contortions and an extra helping of patience I got those little buggers in place.

BTW my forward arm was only bent. That motor must be strong!
I think I paid $50 for a used unit (motor and both arms) + $3.00 for new bushings.
I still have the old motor with the bent arm...

 

Thanks for answering back so quick. What I'm not understanding is how the linkage "arms" from the actuator attaches to the intake manifold butterfly rod? I hope I'm making some sort of sense. I'm thinking that the arm is broken, but maybe it isn't. Does it just plug back into the manifold with a new bushing? I don't want to break the intake open.
Once agin, thank you so much for the advice.

 

You are close.
There is no need to open the intake manifold. Look closely and you see a little lever (1" or so) that operates the butterflies for the bank. The bushing goes into the hole at the lever and the end of the arm goes into the bushing.
In order to replace all 4 bushings you need to take off the black box and disconnect the arm on the rear part of the intake. The front is already disconnected.
Before you take the black box off see if the loose end of the forward arm meets with the IMRC lever on the front part of the intake. If it looks like you could hook the arm right in there than the arm is not broken.
When you have the box off and the front arm taken out lay the arm on a flat surface. It should lay flat when you look at it from the side. From the above it has a few designed bends.
After replacing all bushings and putting everything together have a close look at the IMRC levers. With the engine stopped the levers should go all the way to the endpoints. Do not adjust the endpoints! If the front lever is even a tiny bit open that indicates that the arm has been bent. And that bend shortened the overall length of the arm. I replaced the hole assembly, but it may be possible to bend the arm back.
Once you are satisfied start the engine and by hand at the throttle body raise the rpms above 3000 while watching the the IMRC controls. They should open and close every time you go above and below 3000 rpm.

 

Thanks for the reply,
I've been reading as much as I can find about the IMRC. Nobody has explained it as well as you have. The weather here is supposed to be nice and sunny tomarrow. I'll give it a try and let you know what happens.
Thank you, Ken