2000 Windstar sqwualling noise with belt off!
#1
2000 Windstar sqwualling noise with belt off!
My windstar is making a bad squalling noise. I thought it was the idler pulley so I replaced it. Still did it. Replaced the water pump, still did it and getting worse. I took the serpentine belt off and ran it and it still has that terrible squalling noise and sometimes it about kills the engine. Any suggestions of what could do this with the belt off? I thought it could be a timing belt pulley but found out it has a timing chain!! HELP!!!!
#2
Welcome to the site..
On the front of the engine you'll see a 'short' looking distributor assy. with a wired sensor on top.. That is the camshaft synchronizer with the CMP (cam position sensor) attached topside.. The shaft inside as well as the housing will run dry from lack of lube and make a terrible chirping/squealing noise.. Place a long extension (or a stethoscope if you have one) extra long screwdriver, round rod ect. and place one end at the base of the synchronizer and the other end against your ear.. If the synchronizer has run dry it will be 'very noticable' with a listening device..
Here's a generic image of what the synchronizer looks like...
On the front of the engine you'll see a 'short' looking distributor assy. with a wired sensor on top.. That is the camshaft synchronizer with the CMP (cam position sensor) attached topside.. The shaft inside as well as the housing will run dry from lack of lube and make a terrible chirping/squealing noise.. Place a long extension (or a stethoscope if you have one) extra long screwdriver, round rod ect. and place one end at the base of the synchronizer and the other end against your ear.. If the synchronizer has run dry it will be 'very noticable' with a listening device..
Here's a generic image of what the synchronizer looks like...
#5
The synchronizer is timed/position sensitive..
If you can accurately 'scribe mark' the base of the synchronizer housing (preferably before removing the hold down) and the block area marked where the housing enters,, and then again scribe the upper housing with an alignment mark, making note or an accurate indication of the upper shaft 'pointing postion' you can usually change it out without any trouble..
If you can accurately 'scribe mark' the base of the synchronizer housing (preferably before removing the hold down) and the block area marked where the housing enters,, and then again scribe the upper housing with an alignment mark, making note or an accurate indication of the upper shaft 'pointing postion' you can usually change it out without any trouble..
#6
new and need help!!!
i have the same problem and a new one came up while i was trying to remove the cps. there is a metal line that comes out of the water pump above the cps and it is in the way of me pulling it out. there is one bolt holding it in i took it out and now i cant get the line out im stuck please help!!!!
#7
i have the same problem and a new one came up while i was trying to remove the cps. there is a metal line that comes out of the water pump above the cps and it is in the way of me pulling it out. there is one bolt holding it in i took it out and now i cant get the line out im stuck please help!!!!
1.) Did you get an answer somewhere else? If so, where?
2.) How did you end up fixing this problem?
We are having the same problem with this part squeaking. I haven't attempted to replace myself due to being a novice and not a special tool that others say is needed dur to it being time-sensitive. Thanks for you comments!
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JARS8078
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11-16-2008 11:33 AM