2001 Windstar IMRC help
#1
2001 Windstar IMRC help
I just bought a 2001 Windstar, 110400 miles. while I was poking around under the hood I noticed that the arms of the IMRC were not in the butterfly part of the unit thy were just laying there. the truck runs ok it needs a little tuning there isnt any stalling but it seems a little underpowered. my question is will this affect my gas mileage, how do check to see if the unit is still functioning, will it fix the underpowered feeling. I am going to order the bushings and replace all 4. when I try to turn the butterfly it seems stuck I am not forcing it as I don't know if this is normal. Any help would be greatly appreciated. also I am not getting any codes.
#2
Jojo: the intake runner control works similar to a trumpet. The trumpet player will use the valves to make the resonating column of air shorter for higher notes or longer for lower notes.
At idle and up to about 2800 rpm (a guess) it uses the long runners. Once the rpms go higher it opens the short runners. That way the cylinders get a better fill in both ranges. When the control arms are disconnected the butterflies are not closing and opening fully, that means it messes up both ranges. It is not bad enough to cause big problems but once you fix that you should feel a difference.
The bushings are cheap (about $5 at the parts store) and the job is straight forward. If after that you still feel it is under powered we may have to look for a few more things.
At idle and up to about 2800 rpm (a guess) it uses the long runners. Once the rpms go higher it opens the short runners. That way the cylinders get a better fill in both ranges. When the control arms are disconnected the butterflies are not closing and opening fully, that means it messes up both ranges. It is not bad enough to cause big problems but once you fix that you should feel a difference.
The bushings are cheap (about $5 at the parts store) and the job is straight forward. If after that you still feel it is under powered we may have to look for a few more things.
#3
Thanks for the info Bluewind, it was pretty straight forward I did drop the clips several times trying to insert them into the holes but the unit came right off with 3 bolts and putting the arms back on was a snap, it took me all of 40 min to do the whole job. I really can't see too much difference I'm hoping for the increased gas mileage. are there any other little tweaks to check, I need to replace the front left bearing but I am hesitant to attempt it without an impact wrench to sock the axle back into the bearing. what are your thoughts...... thanks for the help.
#4
The computer will relearn the old tricks after a while.
I suggest you give it a proper tune up: new spark plugs, Motorcraft or NGK, a new set of ignition wires, clean the MAF sensor and give it a new air filter.
I have also done a lacquer thinner treatment: when the tank is at 1/2 full add 1 gal of Lacquer Thinner (not paint thinner!!!) The solvents in it (acetone mostly) will clean the whole fuel system and also the catalytic converter and the O2 sensors. If those parts are clean to begin with this treatment won't do a thing. My van (no longer mine, I sold it yesterday) did run smoother after the treatment.
This van is heavy. I think the best way to drive it is slow and smooth. Maintain momentum. I rarely had it turn more than 3000 rpm. I managed to get 17. something mpg in town and 21 mpg on the interstate. Once you go slow and smooth for a while it can roll along from 1500rpm and shift up really early.
Make sure to service the transmission with Mercon V or equivalent.
I won't comment on the wheel bearing job. I have never done it on a front wheel drive vehicle.
I suggest you give it a proper tune up: new spark plugs, Motorcraft or NGK, a new set of ignition wires, clean the MAF sensor and give it a new air filter.
I have also done a lacquer thinner treatment: when the tank is at 1/2 full add 1 gal of Lacquer Thinner (not paint thinner!!!) The solvents in it (acetone mostly) will clean the whole fuel system and also the catalytic converter and the O2 sensors. If those parts are clean to begin with this treatment won't do a thing. My van (no longer mine, I sold it yesterday) did run smoother after the treatment.
This van is heavy. I think the best way to drive it is slow and smooth. Maintain momentum. I rarely had it turn more than 3000 rpm. I managed to get 17. something mpg in town and 21 mpg on the interstate. Once you go slow and smooth for a while it can roll along from 1500rpm and shift up really early.
Make sure to service the transmission with Mercon V or equivalent.
I won't comment on the wheel bearing job. I have never done it on a front wheel drive vehicle.
Last edited by bluewind; 05-04-2014 at 10:55 PM.
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