So I know alot of people have problems with the vents and the default setting of defrost if the vacuum is problematic. While searching for a bad hose or leak I found this nozzle coming out of the passenger side firewall that seems to need a hose but I can't find one without a home anywhere. It may just be hidden or gone all together. It seems to be right where everyone says to look for it so I was wondering if something should be attached to this and if so, what? My mechanic said loss of vacuum MIGHT also be why the van stutters when in drive at stops while its cold (fine after it warms up) and why it revs real high when I start it up. He said it was a possibility but wasn't sure. It even revs a little when I turn the wheel and even if I just touch the pedal. Any ideas as to what needs to be attached here? (My hand is on the left holding a flashlight in the pic so that's not part of the van haha)

 

Foamie: could you please tell us which van exactly you are referring to? and could you give us a pic that shows more?

If you plug the end does the van run better?

 

I found the disconnected vacuum hose after taking the cowls off and getting back there to see what was loose. You can't see the part the hose came off of without taking them off. Not too tough, even for me. The black line (smaller than I thought) was disconnected from the what I assume is the vacuum. A cylinder back there. I guess when someone was doing work on it they knocked it loose because it would be easy to do as its on there kind of weak. Anyone who has similar problems should try this approach. Takes 1/2 hour at most. I now have all the vents working right in front (rear vents were fine before) and it even seems to help with some rough idling I was having but still too soon to tell. Does the computer need to figure out that before it totally fixes anything?

 

foamie: I am still in the dark as to what kind of van you have! I assume is some kind of a Ford.........

 

So sorry. Thought I mentioned it...

2001 Ford Windstar SE Sport

 

All right Foamie: This Windstar has the plastic intake manifold. The isolator bolt grommets may have shrunk from exposure to oil that went there via the PCV system. The shrinkage allows air in causing a lean condition. It takes an afternoon and a bout $50.00 to replace them. During warm up the computer is working off default values, once warmed up it is able to compensate using sensor data.
Look at the IMRC actuators at the passenger side of the engine below the intake manifold. There should be small white plastic grommets on the linkages. They brake over time and keep the butterflies from closing completely. It causes some roughness over the whole rpm range. It is more notable on the lower end, up to 3000 rpm. About $5.00 at the parts store. You safe it back in improved fuel economy.
This job gives you convenient access to replace the plugs, wires and coil pack.

I did all that on my '03, 155000 miles, and the engine runs beautifully (for a Ford 3.8L anyway).

 

Ok, so I saw your replythis morning so at lunch I took a look and noticed that the front linkage (is it the caot hanger looking thing?) was not connected to a gray part that I assume is what you mean by the "butterfly".Wasn't able to see the back one, no flashlight with me. I connected the linkage back into the butterfly and started it up but didn't drive it. Since most of the issues are when its first warming up and when in drive at idle I put it in drive and sat there there waiting to see if it stuttered. It did for a sec and ran a little rough but evened out. I really won't know how bad it is (or better) until I drive it home. I have a new fuel filter I'm going to install tonight so maybe that will help a little too. Here is a pic I found online that has the parts (linkages?) marked that I found disconnected and put back into the butterfly(?) Is this what you mean?

 

Oh, and I guess it is missing the plastic clips that go in there. it seems to stay in due to the pressure but I heard of a fix using the end of a dry wall anchor (plastic one). Still need to see the other linkage and whether there is a clip there or not. Also, when I saw it today it was in the up position. Possibly the open position which would make sense with the high rev starts.

 

Another update: At break I got a look at the back linkage and butterfly. It was also not connected. Wasn't able to get in the and fish out the linkage but was able to move the butterfly which was in the down position (opposite of what the front one was in). I assume it was also in its open position. I will get in there and try to connect that one as well but I think it will be a bit tougher to get to. Funny thing is I'm getting no codes for this.

 

Ok, so I got in there and got a good look. Found the rear (Bank 1?) linkage was completely off. Had the broken clip still on it. I am going to get new clips ordered to replace them but was wondering if there's an easy way to get these back on without taking a ton of stuff off to get to the back of the actuator. I can get my hands back behind it so maybe once I have the clips they will snap into place? Not sure. Have pics of the whole mess attached. It seems to start better so far but again haven't had alot of time to road test and I know I'll need the clips to keep the arms in place. The front one held on the way home from work and it did stutter and run weird still but ran fine pretty quickly but I think the butterfly in the back went back to the position it was in since the arms not there to hold it in place.

Also have some pics of the fuel filter I was going to replace. I wasn't sure why there was a zip tie on the clip that holds the side closest to the engine on. and no one said anything about hose clamps (except for the one holding it on) so wasn't sure why those were there )on both sides). I didn't mess with it yet.