Stalls When It Begins Moving
#1
Stalls When It Begins Moving
My 96 Windstar (3.8L, 122K) sometimes stalls when it is stopped and I step on the accelerator.
Took it to NJ. Put 2,500 mi. on it in 10 days. Ran great except when engine is cold it might stall when you begin to move from a stop. But not always. Stalled 1 or 2 times when warm.
Idle would feel and look OK; step on gas to begin moving and it stalled.
I ran 2 cans of fuel system cleaner through it. No difference.
I checked fuel pressure. It's only 30 psi, but my book says 28-45 psi is OK. If I remove vacuum from pressure regulator, it jumps to 40 psi so it looks like the pump has some oomph left in it.
I am overdue to replace fuel filter, but I don't think its enough to make it stall.
Before trip I did new coil, idle air control valve, MAF sensor, coolant temp sensor and EGR valve because tach was moving too much at idle. Idle is steady and about as smooth as you could expect at this mileage.
Fuel pump doesn't have to deliver much fuel at idle so OK pressure at idle does not mean its OK. How do I make sure fuel pump is really OK? Replacing it is $$ because I can't do it myself. I can afford to guess on other solutions.
Any input appreciated.
Took it to NJ. Put 2,500 mi. on it in 10 days. Ran great except when engine is cold it might stall when you begin to move from a stop. But not always. Stalled 1 or 2 times when warm.
Idle would feel and look OK; step on gas to begin moving and it stalled.
I ran 2 cans of fuel system cleaner through it. No difference.
I checked fuel pressure. It's only 30 psi, but my book says 28-45 psi is OK. If I remove vacuum from pressure regulator, it jumps to 40 psi so it looks like the pump has some oomph left in it.
I am overdue to replace fuel filter, but I don't think its enough to make it stall.
Before trip I did new coil, idle air control valve, MAF sensor, coolant temp sensor and EGR valve because tach was moving too much at idle. Idle is steady and about as smooth as you could expect at this mileage.
Fuel pump doesn't have to deliver much fuel at idle so OK pressure at idle does not mean its OK. How do I make sure fuel pump is really OK? Replacing it is $$ because I can't do it myself. I can afford to guess on other solutions.
Any input appreciated.
#2
Since you rec'd no ck eng lite , Lets see what you get out of that fuel filter. When you remove it, just drain it opposite the direction of normal fuel flow and see what comes out. Also, compare blowing thorugh the old one compared to a new one, after you drain the old one of course. Let us know what you find. Thanks,,,,,,,,,,,,hanky
#3
Solution Update
Well, I thought the solution to this problem might be useful to others.
First, I replaced the fuel filter and it increased fuel pressure from 30 to 32 which helped a little.
The main cause of the problem turned out to be a cracked EGR tube.
When I replaced the EGR valve and other items, I had to also disconnect the EGR feedback sensor. It has two small hoses that connect into the EGR tube. Removing these hoses was impossible so I had to cut them off. Although I tried to twist them off I apparently wiggled them some and the weld where the outlets connect to the tube cracked. It was probably already corroded or had a hairline crack when I started.
Replacing the EGR tube was the fix, but it was difficult to install. You have to make sure it is in perfect and very tight on both ends or else you will still be sucking some air and will affect engine idle. The bottom end near the exhaust is very difficult because there is so little room between the radiator and the frame plus you need a a long wrench. I had to buy a 1+1/8" crows foot socket. You will also need to hold the manifold threads in place with another wrench while you tighten the fitting
First, I replaced the fuel filter and it increased fuel pressure from 30 to 32 which helped a little.
The main cause of the problem turned out to be a cracked EGR tube.
When I replaced the EGR valve and other items, I had to also disconnect the EGR feedback sensor. It has two small hoses that connect into the EGR tube. Removing these hoses was impossible so I had to cut them off. Although I tried to twist them off I apparently wiggled them some and the weld where the outlets connect to the tube cracked. It was probably already corroded or had a hairline crack when I started.
Replacing the EGR tube was the fix, but it was difficult to install. You have to make sure it is in perfect and very tight on both ends or else you will still be sucking some air and will affect engine idle. The bottom end near the exhaust is very difficult because there is so little room between the radiator and the frame plus you need a a long wrench. I had to buy a 1+1/8" crows foot socket. You will also need to hold the manifold threads in place with another wrench while you tighten the fitting
#4
Thank you for the info. Glad you corrected the problem. Tune in from time to time because ,speaking for myself, I will probably forget what you did to correct that problem, but I know, you won't. Thanks for sharing the fix. ,,,,,,,,,,,hanky
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